Tales From Darkest Dunedin

Tales From Darkest Dunedin Cemetery and city tours. Book at www.darkestdunedin.co.nz

"...an office which the Otago community have never ceased protesting against as needless, extravagant, and objectional i...
07/08/2026

"...an office which the Otago community have never ceased protesting against as needless, extravagant, and objectional in the extreme, as having a tendency to encourage and foster pauperism." Otago Witness, 16 April 1853 about the newly installed Dunedin Hospital.

As we await our new hospital (with, now three cranes!) it might be a good time to look back on Dunedin's very first hospital. But why did the Scottish settlers in Dunedin not want a hospital? To really understand, we have to go back a bit. Okay, a long bit.

The bubonic plague took place around the mid 14thC and killed roughly 40 to 60% of the population in England alone. At its lowest point, the population was 1.9 million until the 16thC it began to recover but a population boom is never without its problems and one of those problems was poverty. But why? (Is this relevant to the Dunedin hospital? Yes, hang in there!)

The population in 1530 rose to 3 million and by 1600 it was at 4 million. The rising population put pressure on resources, demand goes up, prices go up and the people just can't keep up.

Farming changed. Land owners closed in land that the villagers had used to graze animals and they chose large scale sheep farming instead of tenants.

1590s saw a series of bad wheat harvests due to the mini ice age.

Inflation - prices rose but wages stayed the same or fell but because the population increase, workers had little to no bargaining power.

Taxes increased. Wool demand dropped.

Henry VIII (8th) closed and looted the monasteries between 1536 and 1541 to fund his expensive war habit and to eliminate the opposition after he broke away from the Roman Catholic Church. He then made himself the head of the Church of England (which, no coincidence, allowed divorces). The monks and nuns had largely been responsible for charity - they provided food, clothing and shelter for the poor but now they were the poor, with no support.

All of this lead to a dire amount of poverty and something needed to be done. Enter, The Poor Laws. The next twenty years saw various laws written to look after the different types of poor people - impotent poor were aged, infirm and generally incapable of looking after themselves, they went into Poor Houses. The able bodied poor went into Work Houses and the rogues and vagabonds went into, effectively, prisons.

These houses were purposefully made to be disgusting, inhuman places so that people would only choose them as a last resort. And gradually over the various changes to The Poor Laws, they were funded by a compulsory tax and driven by austerity. By the 19thC, charity, where it once was a normal part of looking after society, was stigmatised. There was a deep shame in being poor and relying on government benefits.

Now to the hospitals.

In mid 19thC Britain there were two types of hospitals. Voluntary and variations on Work and Poor Houses. Voluntary hospitals were institutions that were funded by laymen. Doctors would work in them for free, giving them status and importance but would have private practices on the side for those who could pay for visits in their own homes which was preferable. They became places of research as well as benevolence; installing fever, eye, children and maternity wards. Prayers were part of the treatment in voluntary hospitals - to God but also to the benefactors who then had the privilege to nominate who could be admitted. Power corrupts, however and they began excluding particular aliments that seemed icky to them - namely maternity, venereal and infectious diseases.

The second type of hospital was for the 'sick poor' - people too poor to pay for the doctors in private practice. Attendants were untrained and provided a low standard of care. An importance was placed more on treating the symptoms rather than curing disease. They were filthy places that should be avoided at any cost but that was the point. The work houses and poor houses eventually became hospitals through the Poor Law system. By 1850 it was found necessary to appoint resident staff at these institutions and by 1861 the work and poor houses contained over 80% of the hospital beds in England and Wales.

So, when Governor Grey floated the idea of a hospital in the new settlement of Otago, the settlers weren't thrilled. Settlers who had been arriving on a boat who were unwell would be treated in wooden buildings at the harbour by New Zealand Company staff but the expectation afterwards was they would pay for their healthcare through private practices. They didn't see the need for a hospital because they were not going to have poverty in their settlement. This is what they were escaping. But Governor Grey gave Otago £400 in 1850 and the hospital was to serve the poor but mainly intended for Māori who were suffering from the introduced diseases (namely the measles and tuberculosis) and were promised equitable healthcare under the Treaty. The hospital was built in The Octagon where the Town Hall is now and was up and running by 1852.

However, the Central Government refused to financially support this hospital as did the Provincial Government - the Provincial Government even allowed the new Chief Constable and his family to live in it in 1855 which severely limited space for actual patients. Luckily, the majority of patients paid their own way during this time and the next Governor, Thomas Browne, paid for the Māori patients out of his own pocket.

By 1856, The Provincial Government succumbed to pressure and began to fund their hospital themselves and they hired a Provincial Surgeon - Robert Williams. He clashed politically with William Cargill, Otago's superintendent so he was replaced with Edward Hulme, a very experienced and skilled doctor although still British who the Scottish Cargill referred to as "the little enemy". Hulme took the hospital from strength to strength until his death in 1867.

That's long enough for now. Stay tuned for part two and find out what The Octagon hospital was like and why it isn't there anymore.

Pictures from The Otago Hospital Board And Its Predecessors by John Angus

What do you want us to offer for Halloween? I didn't know what to put as a picture so here's the book I've been reading ...
04/08/2026

What do you want us to offer for Halloween?

I didn't know what to put as a picture so here's the book I've been reading to make a post about the old hospital in the Octagon. Also, what do you know about the old hospital in the Octagon? What do you want to know?

24/07/2026

Family visiting and you don't know what to do with them? We'll take them! Email [email protected] and we'll take them to see the Larnach tomb before a private tour of Dunedin's most curious castle.

Your family are coming down to visit, I know they are and you are pulling your hair out thinking lordy, what am I going ...
24/07/2026

Your family are coming down to visit, I know they are and you are pulling your hair out thinking lordy, what am I going to do with them! I don't have time or petrol to take them anywhere decent?

Guess what, we do!

We're available for bespoke tours - get them out of your hair for a while and entertained by a historian guide, they'll have a great afternoon at the The Royal Albatross Centre, Blue Penguins Pukekura or Larnach Castle.

The castle is our most popular destination - after pick up, drive through the Northern Cemetery to see the spectacular tomb and hear the tragic story of the family inside it. Then drive to the castle for a private tour by your guide, Gregor Campbell then stay for a cuppa in the cafe and a nosey around the gift shop (we can drop hints for gifts for the grandkids if you give us a list ahead of time).

$140 per couple + $96 castle entrance (including building and gardens).

Email [email protected] or head to our website www.darkestdunedin.co.nz

“Give us work,” “ Give us food,” were cries that came from the crowd. “We’re not asking for booze” “I didn’t say booze,”...
16/07/2026

“Give us work,” “ Give us food,” were cries that came from the crowd.
“We’re not asking for booze”
“I didn’t say booze,” said the first speaker, “ I said food.”
-Overheard during the Dunedin food riots 1932

You might have seen the article doing the rounds lately, the one titled “Police are dealing with a new type of shoplifter - ‘everyday people’ who just need to eat” and you can be sure we have a story that draws parallels for that or we wouldn’t be Tales From Darkest Dunedin.

To start with, quickly, let’s define what ‘the gold' standard means:
“The gold standard is a monetary system where a country’s paper money and coins are directly backed by a physical amount of gold. Under this system, governments promise to convert any amount of paper currency into a fixed, predetermined quantity of actual gold.” Basically, a country must have had physical gold before they could print money to that value - and no more.

World War 1 ends. To fund the war, Germany had temporarily ceased the idea of the gold standard so money could be printed far beyond what gold was in store. France borrowed from Britain and the USA. Britain borrowed from the USA. Germany, for being the aggressor and loser now owed reparations to France and Britain and they borrowed from the United States to pay them. Round and round we go.

The US demanded loans be repaid and with cash which forced smaller European countries and Britain, France and Germany (who had reinstated their gold standard) to send the bulk of their gold bullion. They ended up with 45% of the world’s supply while France pushed hard and went from holding 7% to 27% by 1932.

This made it difficult for other countries to hold up their gold standard commitments - you could only have as much money in circulation as you had gold in the vaults.

And France wouldn’t print more money for the gold it had which kept potential liquidity out of circulation. They didn’t want to hyper-inflate their currency; they relied on Germany’s reparations.

This is enough to cause a recession so how did it go to a depression? A few reasons.

President Hoover signed the Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act into law in 1930. Economists signed a petition against this idea but it went ahead anyway and it probably sounds very familiar. The USA now had increased tariffs on imports. Any imports coming into the country was subject to added taxes in an effort to encourage people to buy nationally. This upset world trade immensely and Canada retaliated - they increased their tariffs on certain American made goods and the rest of the world followed suit. International trade which had once been very lucrative, collapsed by 66% between 1929 and 1934. If America couldn’t afford to buy goods from Germany, Germany couldn’t afford to pay reparations to France and Britain who were paying their war debts to the US. US lending had been drying up since 1928 when the federal reserve raised their interest rates. The reparations system collapsed. Germany’s banking system was in crisis.

In 1928, Benjamin Strong died. He served as the Governor of the Federal Reserve Bank of New York for 14 years until his death and was largely responsible for the relatively smooth operations of the banking system at this time. His death sparked an instability within the system and the Federal Reserve decentralised.

This was also a time of extreme income inequality. The poor couldn’t afford consumer goods, the middle class were borrowing to buy consumer goods and the rich could only own so many things so would put their money into assets and stocks. The 1920’s saw a boom of industry but what good was it if no one could afford to, or didn’t want to purchase.

Another reason was reckless financial speculation fuelled by cheap credit and inadequate regulation which inflated asset bubbles that were bound to burst. And burst it did, this led to the infamous stock market crash.

Now, without Strong’s leadership, the federal reserve thought ‘nah, why should we bail out the banks’ and refused to flood the system with liquidity, the reason it existed and that, folks, is how we end up with a Great Depression.

New Zealand was a proud colony of Britain and relied heavily on trade. With this trade now in the bin, unemployment rose.

The United–Reform Coalition Government led by Prime Minister George Forbes governed under the principles of austerity. Worker camps were set up for men, they did hard labour for a lower rate than they would normally have and flat rate taxes to fund this were implemented - haphazardly so. The discontent was at an all time high.

9th January 1932 in Dunedin, 300 men led by a small group of women, marched down George Street to demand food from the Hospital Board in Hanover St to cover them for the weekend. The women were invited inside and means testing meant their husbands weren’t entitled to any food parcels since they had already recently been recipients. The women left the building. They were told “it was up to the men themselves to find some way to fill their wants” so one man yelled out “To Wardells!” The group of workers turned into a group of rioters in that very instance when they marched down to Wardell’s Grocery Store (to the right of Farmers today) and attempted to loot it. They got as far as smashing a window and creating a bit of damage, hurling bricks and other debris but the police presence was large enough that no looting took place. They lingered to protest - singing songs like The Red Flag (see link below) while someone played The Reveille and The Fall In on bugle. A community member, Mr Polson offered 10 pounds towards food packages and crowd funding began. If they could afford it, citizens put enough money together for 800 food parcels to be handed out in Dowling Street a week later. That didn’t help them right at this minute though and another attempt was made on the grocery store when a second avenue for food - the Labourer’s Union failed to come up with the goods. Trams were blocked “if the trams are stopped then no one loses but the corporation” and had to reroute. Cars were blocked from George Street unless they were daring, as was one van who broke through the crowd, ran over a woman and was chased into St Andrew Street by a mob - the van was tipped over and wrecked.

Arrests were made but the men came back a month later to a hero’s welcome at the railway station. The protest didn’t fall on deaf ears though, the hospital board stumped up with a hundred pounds for food parcels a couple days later.

April saw another round of riots - the Mayor’s wife caught up in it being tipped over in her taxi.

The depression eased for New Zealand around 1934 when George Coates, the minister of finance, among other policies created the New Zealand Reserve Bank, giving New Zealand independence over its own financial decisions.

When governments fail the working class, when that social contract is broken, it breeds political extremism. Where New Zealand then voted in the Labour Party, 1935, led by Joseph Savage, the man who said “our objective is a state of society where none will be rich but none will be poor”, other parts of the world were becoming prey to opportunist extremists that took advantage of disruption and scapegoated minorities. But World War 2 is a story for another time.

P.S. Some might say that modern economics began in 1931 when the gold standard was dropped. Nations no longer had a reason to not print more and more cash.

More resources:
History of the Wardell's building
https://builtindunedin.com/tag/wardells/

The Red Flag
https://youtu.be/sHoyoKgRq5U?si=GXSyjrHmyr9pQPk0
The Reveille bugle call
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8r5Ieh0OuQY
The Fall In bugle call
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55EEn3D-0Mo

Photo from Hocken Library. Wardells, George St, 1957

For the last few years we've been using cellphone shots to show the rest of the world what Dunedin has to offer and they...
14/07/2026

For the last few years we've been using cellphone shots to show the rest of the world what Dunedin has to offer and they've not even been very good ones 🫠

Today we went out with a real photographer and will have some swoon-worthy shots of all the bangers 😍 Josephine features on our heritage tour and murder & woe tours. She's seen a lot, that little engine.

We took some photos of Larnach Castle and luckily I'm not the photographer because all I took were photos of the gift shop. But honestly, look at these Bordallo Pinheiro dishes.

The Cargill Monument stands today as a landmark that means different things to different people. It's "the pointy thing ...
12/07/2026

The Cargill Monument stands today as a landmark that means different things to different people.

It's "the pointy thing in the Exchange", the monument to know you've got to Rattray Street, the place my nana collapsed and I got a ride in an ambulance, the thing that has water fountains with no basin...

It is the monument created for Captain William Cargill.

Captain William Walter Cargill was the first leader of the Otago Settlement until his death in 1860. There's no coincidence the gold rush took off after his death - he did his best to hold it off claiming "flour is more necessary than gold and probably more profitable". A hero of the Peninsular War under Wellington and first superintendent of Otago, he was acclaimed as worthy of commemoration by his fellow colonists. The tender price accepted for a memorial to the Captain was - at today's values, $168,943. It was a large sum for what was then a small budget.

The design was drawn by the town's engineer, Mr Charles Swyer who was known to be a bit hammy in an already very hammy era. The monument was largely created in Melbourne out of Hobart Town Stone and was shipped over and erected in the middle of The Octagon. Some say it's modelled after the Walter Scott memorial but nothing official is written about it. What was written on plenty was the fact it had, seemingly very little to do with Cargill and more to do with the designers vision for the city. Even holding Swyer's own family crest - a swan's head on a crown, controversialy on the shield rather than above it on a helmet. The winged monkeys however might be related, monkeys representing wisdom in heraldry. A nice touch for a man who wasn't well liked but was well respected.

The structure became as polarising as the man it memorialised - "a barley sugar of an ornament" placed in the middle of a pioneering town not yet used to the baubles of finery. They were having to contend with the elaborate buildings for the 1865 exhibition and being a very humble, conservative society, it made for some very indignant letters to the editor.

Once Bell Hill started coming down, Princes Street was coming to life and the decision was to cut it right through the middle of The Octagon where the memorial stood. So it was taken apart, sitting like a wedding cake in three layers, and taken to the site of the Custom House - the old exchange building in 1872. A small group of Māori and European prisoners working on the cutting through the hill were used to flatten the mound where it had been, using the material to bring the road round The Octagon to its proper level.

The relocation was as controversial as it was the first time and not many in the area were happy to be its new guardian. However, it did receive promised upgrades. New water fountains were carved from Hobart Town stone which was a real boon for the area which was largely drinking establishments for thirsty miners. The water board donated the facilities, drawing water from a spring in High Street and a cup was chained to the stone. I'm sure there was no better a breeding ground for illness than this fountain. It did have an attendant but it was rarely cleaned of debris and the temptation for men to use it as a urinal was too much. It fell into disrepair, became dwarfed by the ever growing buildings around it and again, was shamed for its appearance.

By 1883, the Salvation Army officially used the steps to conduct their work but the idea was introduced in 1881 when police told the small group to move on to the memorial instead of the road near Garrison Hall where they had been. History was made.

This perhaps gave some Mormon preachers confidence in 1901 to use the monument the same but instead they were chased off by a crowd of unamused youths down to The Octagon, down Stuart Street and eventually the Mormons took refuge in the police station. Subsequent efforts were also foiled.

1910 saw the installation of underground toilets adjacent to the memorial which became the hangout for gentlemen seeking the company other gentleman - this causing the facilities to be locked at night, colloquially knowing as "chubbing", presumably after the name of the security company Chubb.

By 1920 the water was cut off "on the score of economy. Now, instead of pure water, the basins contained banana peel, old boots, match boxes, and other flotsam and jetsam, and ... ladies who had ascended the steps to read the inscription turn away in disgust at the aroma which arose from there and thereabouts."

I don't know when the fountains were filled in as we know them now, but I don't blame them for it.

Many times the momenument was threatened with removal or relocation, it was, a couple of times described as a bride's cake - "it looks like a gigantic bride's cake that has been left out in the rain and got blue-mouldy".

Fast forward to 1996, the small triangle on which the Monument sat was made part of a larger area with the removal of the portion of Lower High St to the south. The whole area was laid with red pavers and the Monument was now the northern part of a wider public space. In 2013, with the 2011 Christchurch earthquakes very much in mind, the whole structure was dismantled, repaired and rebuilt, with a number of newly-carved portions which had been lost to time, weather and unwise mountaineers.

The "barley sugar ornament" will be around for a while yet.

https://otagotaphophile.blogspot.com/2019/06/the-cargill-monument-eyesore-to-people.html?m=1

"There are worse things than being blind, and I got it for a good cause" are the words by Corporal George Scott who I wa...
07/07/2026

"There are worse things than being blind, and I got it for a good cause" are the words by Corporal George Scott who I was reminded of when I saw the hanging lights in the railway station foyer this week. Appropriately for remembrance, these are for the stargazer train celebrating Matariki - https://dunedinrailways.co.nz/Taieri-Gorge-Stargazer

You see, when you enter the Railway Station by its main doors, there's a plaque taken from an old engine. It is commemorating the bloodiest day of battle for New Zealand in any war.
Passchendaele - 846 men were killed and over 1800 were wounded.

George Scott was born in Mullocky Gully, which is in the hills near the Taieri Plain and crossed by the Wingatui Viaduct of the Central Otago railway. He was working as a railway porter in Palmerston when he joined the army in 1915. In August 1917 he was promoted to Corporal and by October he was at Bellevue Spur in Passchendaele.

This is where, in amongst all the mud and wire, a German bullet ripped across his face taking with it his eyes. Remarkably, he survived but recovery was long and arduous. Physically and mentally.

He recovered, married the woman who was his nurse and in 1918 moved back to NZ to start a family. Two children later in 1929 the powers who be decided to cut his pension owing to the money that his rugby friends had collected for him and his wife's thrifty savings. The community fought this decision but it was already made. The worry was that if he died, Mrs Scott and their children would be cut from his pension. Since he was injured before they were married, she wasn't entitled to it as most war widows are. So she made sure there was a nest egg for them.

Indeed, he did die two years later from complications due to his injuries. The mud and carnage of Bellevue Spur were the last things he would ever see but he refused to be defined by it.

Matariki is a time for remembrance, looking to the future and learning from the past. When you pass over the Wingatui Viaduct on the Stargazer train with your loved ones, spare a thought for George Scott, his family and what lessons they have to teach us.

Who are you remembering this Matariki, under the stars?

The hill that the First Church is built upon was not always the accessible, easy walk that it is today. It was originall...
07/07/2026

The hill that the First Church is built upon was not always the accessible, easy walk that it is today.

It was originally a bluff, it came up 12m higher than currently and was too steep and rocky in places to "even get an ox and cart over" and there wasn't room to put a road around the bottom.

Scottish architect, Robert Lawson was contracted to design First Church on top of this bluff (the previous iterations had been near Dowling Street) but the provincial government delayed the plans in an effort to make the area more accessible for the congregation.

In 1858 they started "the cutting" which is now Princes Street and then decided to just take the whole lot down. Early 1860s saw men being paid to lay blasting powder to bring up the rock but the remaining work was done by prison labour - how fortunate to have a prison built so close, huh!

Many men were given hard labour sentences and ordered to work on the hill, all pick and shovel work, including the Māori prisoners from the war happening up north in the Waikato area. Prisoners is probably a euphemism for what they were, slavery being a more apt term. The word "prisoner" indicates they were captured and granted a trial but laws were shifted around, land was legally confiscated (another euphemism for stolen) and as a result for their subordinate behavior (protecting their land and rights under the treaty) the Māori prisoners of war were put to hard labour with no trial.

That was just the start of using Māori for pioneering the streets in Dunedin - the invasion of Parihaka in 1881 saw men brought down to work and carve out many of the roads we still use today.

As for the church, the change in land meant the design needed to be rethought and the spire was built even taller so it could still be seen throughout the city - in case you're wondering why it's so tall. 20,000 cubic meters of rock was taken out of the hill and used to reclaim the area around it to extend out the harbour for commercial enterprise and to cover the mudflats and install sewer pipes in an effort to lessen the cholera and dysentery brewing there.

In 1874, the third iteration of First Church was complete and what an unlikely mix of people to get it there. The English, Scottish and Māori. When we look back at history and we think "why does everything take so much longer now?" - well, labour laws of course.

This half of Darkest Dunedin spent the night at the Distinction hotel on Liverpool Street. It was such a treat to get re...
04/07/2026

This half of Darkest Dunedin spent the night at the Distinction hotel on Liverpool Street. It was such a treat to get reacquainted with a building that had been left derelict for nearly twenty years. If you're looking for a staycation, I highly recommend it. Looking out at all our old warehouse buildings, it was almost like I was working at the post office back in the day, looking out, wistfully hurrying my lunch break. Except I had WiFi and room service.

https://www.heritage.org.nz/list-details/2145/Listing

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