DB Pro Pool Services Inc

05/08/2019

7 Common Pool Pump Issues and How To Fix Them:

The Pool Pump is Making a Loud Screeching Noise or Sounds Like it’s Full of Rocks:

Screeching or gargling noise can be frustrating for pool owners and surrounding neighbors. If your pool pump sounds like it’s running with rocks inside the pump basket, it might be starved for water. This can be attributed to a couple of different things. First, check your suction lines. If too many of them are closed off, the pump will struggle to get water and become noisy. Next, check your skimmers. If they are clogged, remove any debris and re-assemble. If all else fails, your pump could be too powerful for your pool. If this is the case, you’ll want to downgrade to a pump with less power to avoid future problems.

If your pool pump is causing a screeching noise, it could be caused by worn bearings. You can change the bearings out, but many pool owners opt to switch out the older motor for a new one.

The Pool Pump is Leaking Water:

In most cases, a leak underneath a pool pump is caused by a pressure-side leak. This is easily combated by inspecting the impeller housing o-ring, shaft seal and replacing any worn, cracked o-rings or seals. Before taking apart your pool pump, we recommend purchasing a go-kit. It is relatively inexpensive and will have all the necessary parts to replace your worn o-rings and seals.

The Pool Pump Basket Does Not Fill with Water:

If your pump basket does not fill with water, you’ll have to prime the pump. The good new is it’s pretty straight forward, just follow the steps below:

Disconnect any power to the pump and move the diverter valve so that the main drain side is turned to off.
Relieve any existing pressure by turning the air relief valve counter clockwise on your pool filter until the pressure reads zero on the pool filter gauge.
Remove the pump lid and clean any debris from the pump basket, then fill it with water using a garden hose. Once done, replace the pump lid and set the pool return to open on the diverter valve so water can return to the pool.
Turn the power back on and check to see that the water flow has returned to the strainer box.
Wait until the water starts to come out of the relief valve, then close it. After about 1 minute, water should be flowing freely inside the strainer box (top of pump).
If water is not flowing freely in the strainer box, return to step one and repeat.
Switch the diverter valve back to half way between the skimmer and main drain. If the pump is still not primed, check the impeller for debris and filter pressure for anything 10psi above the clean reading for your pool filter.

The Pool Pump is Making a Humming Noise and will not Start:

If your pool pump will not start and you hear a humming noise, check you impeller for any debris. If debris starts to build, it can block the impeller and disable the pool pump. To check the impeller, turn the power off to the pump and remove the screws in the middle of the pump body. Once the screws have been removed, pull the assembly out of the housing and remove the gasket away from the impeller, remove any debris and re-assemble.

The Pool Pump is Sucking in Air:

To operate properly, pool pumps must be air tight. If there is a leak, the pool pump will suck in air and become problematic. The first thing you’ll want to check is the pump lid. If not on properly, the pump will suck in air and the pump will not be able to prime. If that does not solve the problem you’ll want to check where the pipe enters the pump, the valve stem on any of the suction valves, the plumbing on the suction side of the pump (before the impeller), o-rings and gaskets. Look for cracks, leaks, loose or old fittings and replace or repair if needed. If you still can’t find a leak, spray some shaving cream on to the areas listed above. The leak will draw the shaving cream in and leave a dimple.

The Pool Pump Motor is not Working or Turning Off while Running:

If your pump is not starting, you’ll want to check a couple of things. First, check to see if the pump is getting power and check your timer to make sure the pump is on. If the pump is on and you are hearing a humming noise, it could be a bad capacitor. The capacitor is what starts the pump by giving it a jolt of electricity. No jolt, no start. You can replace the capacitor, but it is best done by a professional. The capacitor can still store power so be careful if replacing. If your pump is old, consider replacing the motor instead.

If your pump does turn on, but loses power, it could be overheating. Try running the pump during the night to avoid overheating. If this does not work, check the bottom vents of the motor to make sure there is nothing inhibiting the fan. If the problem persists, you’ll have to replace the pool motor or pool pump.

The Flow Rate of the Pool Pump is Low:

If the flow rate of the pump has dropped, you will want to make sure there is nothing blocking the flow of the pump or filter. Check your filter gauge first. If you are above 10psi over the clean reading specified by the manufacturer, you’ll want to clean the filter to reduce the pressure and reset the flow back to the pool pump.

Next, check your pump basket and impeller for debris that would be blocking water flow. To remove the impeller, turn the power off to the pump and remove the screws in the middle of the pump body. Once the screws have been removed, pull the assembly out of the housing and remove the gasket away from the impeller, remove any debris and re-assemble.

03/06/2019

For some pool owners, a stained pool is beyond embarrassing, worse than tattered carpet and stained couch cushions. It can ruin your entire backyard experience. Hard-to-remove pool spots and stains can take a bit more than just brushing. You need some powerful chemicals and methods to treat and prevent pool stains.

The first step to getting rid of those eyesore spots is to diagnose the stain type. Swimming pool stains can be caused by:

1. Metals or Minerals in the pool water coming out of solution
2. Rust coming through the wall, floor, or around fittings
3. Organic material like leaves, dirt, oils, worms or algae

A clue to identifying the type of pool stain may be found in the color of the stain.

how to prevent and treat pool stainsMetal Stains: Metals create pool stains that appear reddish-brown, are very dark in color, or have a rust-like appearance to them. Copper stains in a pool will normally form a teal or turquoise blue/green color, while iron stains produce a rusty-red to brown, or green-brown splotches, and manganese will usually cause brownish-black or purple stains. Metals in pool water can be controlled with our Stain Away, Metal Free or Metal Klear.

Rust Stains: If it looks like rust, it probably is. Rust pool stains that appear in isolated spots are usually caused by metal objects that (mysteriously) find their way into the pool. Either that – or the rust is coming from the inside-out! On concrete pools, a rebar tie wire that is too close to the surface, or a crack that allowed water to reach the rebar steel. On vinyl pools, galvanized steel walls in wet soils can eventually break down , which can be slowed with paint and wall foam.

Mineral Stains: A mineral stain is actually a scale film mixed with dirt and oils deposited as a dull discoloration. A mineral stain is often found as a waterline stain, in scaly white deposits on the tile, but with certain water conditions, scale can deposit an all-over filmy, dirty stain onto other pool surfaces. Mineral stains in pool water can be controlled with our our Stain Away, Scale Free or Jack’s Blue Stuff.

Waterline Stains: Oils and dirt on the surface can combine with other particulate matter into a waterline stain, or “scum line” at the normal mid-tile water level. For pools that lower the water during winterization, you may notice several concentric watermarks in the top area of the pool wall. Using enzymes such as Pool Perfect or Pool Magic can remove and prevent oily organic organics from your pool water.

Organic Stains: A greenish-brown colored pool stain is generally something organic, such as tannins leaching from leaves, acorns or mud sitting in the bottom of the pool. Algae, worms or other animals can also leave an ugly stain on your pool surface. Berries will create a red or blue stain in pools. Organic pool stains on concrete pools can be bleached out with chlorine granules sprinkled over the area. Vinyl pools should pre-dissolve first, and pour directly over the stain.

Flower Watering canAll of these stains can be removed by lowering the water level and applying a weak solution of Acid Magic directly to the wall from a flower watering can. Add two cups of Acid Magic to one gallon of water. Pour directly on plaster or pebble surfaces and hose off thoroughly, per label instructions.

Some of the worst pool staining can occur from mudslides or mulch and soil overflowing into the pool. For those that find it impossible to correct these conditions, recoating the pool with a dark colored plaster or dark pool liner can hide the pool stains!

Organic Pool Stains
Pool Stain Removers

A super simple way to get rid of most organic pool stains is to shock the pool and give your pool a little TLC with a good brushing. This ‘bleaching’ removes most organic stains in all pool types.

Sprinkle granular chlorine shock right over an organic stain to make it disappear instantly. For vinyl pools, always pre-dissolve pool shock first in a five gallon bucket full of water, pour over the area and brush well.

Localized stains can be removed with a gallon of Acid Magic and a piece of PVC Pipe. Pour a few cups of Acid Magic into a length of 1.5″ PVC pipe that you hold over a small spot on a plaster surface. Attach a 90 degree fitting on the end to deliver the acid to a stain on the pool wall.

EZ Stain Remover A simpler way is to sprinkle our EZ Stain Remover over the stained area, following label instructions. Our strongest pool stain remover, a combination of acids and stain fighters that can be used on any pool, concrete or vinyl.

A related pool stain removal trick, for both concrete and vinyl pools, is to make your own Stain Sock filled with a granular acid – EZ Stain Remover, or our granular pH Reducer. Carefully pour 1 cup (8 oz) into a thin sock or hosiery. Tie it off tightly into a pool stain bag that you can place over stained areas with your pool brush. Let it sit for a few minutes, or you can lightly scrub the surface with the ‘stain bag’. Finally a use for those orphan socks!

Stain EraserTo skip the harsh chemicals, consider the Stain Eraser. This product is made of a rubbery polymer with a mild abrasive to give your scrubbing an extra kick. It also comes with a tile grout scrubber to get in between those fine cracks. There are two different types of Stain Erasers – tan for concrete pools and blue for vinyl pools. Attach the erasers to your pool pole with included clip to remove hard to reach pool stains.

Inground pools can also use Pumice Stones and PoolStones, which are abrasive scrubbing stones that wear away as you clean surfaces. Safe for tile, grout, plaster, PebbleTec, and stonework of all types. Can use on vinyl pool steps, but too rough for vinyl liners.

Pool First AidIf your stain is all around the waterline of the pool because of material floating at the top, use an enzyme-based cleaner such as Natural Chemistry’s Pool First Aid. Enzyme-based cleaners help to break down organic compounds and oils for natural stain removal. For winterized pools, Pool Magic Spring & Fall is a perfect stain fighter to prevent green pool openings, and stop winter waterline stains

Acid Magic is better than Muriatic Acid

Organic pool stains over time can give your pool a dull light-brown appearance. It can be hard to notice because it happens so slowly. Eventually you may decide to drain and acid wash a plaster pool. Add a few cups of Acid Magic to a gallon of water in a flower watering can, and you can acid clean a plaster or pebble pool, tile or coping stones–even your pool deck!

Metallic Pool Stains
vinyl-pool-stain-prevention-chemicals

For metal pool stains, the first thing to do is to lockup the metals in your pool water with a powerful Stain & Scale chemical like Metal Free, Metal Klear or our own Stain Away. For pools with high levels of metals in the water, such Stain & Scale chemicals are important to use regularly, to maintain protection and keep metal stains from returning.

A common follow up treatment to remove metal pool stains is Natural Chemistry’s Stain Free, or our own A+ Stain Remover. Stain free and A+ Stain are ascorbic acid based pool stain removers. That’s right, regular granular Vitamin C – and it makes a great all-natural pool stain remover. Linus Pauling would be so proud!

One way to test if Stain Free would work on your particular pool stain is to grind up (very finely) a small handful of Vitamin C tablets from your medicine cabinet, and sprinkle these over the stained area. If it works, buy a bottle. If it doesn’t do anything, try our EZ Stain Remover.

Our EZ Stain Remover is a powerful stain remover for metallic based pool stains. Iron, copper and manganese stains can all be removed without draining, in most cases. For very severe metal staining in pools, with very high metal levels, or problems for years, re-treatment may be needed, or results may be incomplete. However, for most pools with light overall staining or spots here or there, EZ Stain Remover can do the job.

In-Pool Step Stains: If the staining has reached your pool steps and they need an extra scrub, try Jack’s Magic Step Stuff to whiten your pool steps back to brand new condition. A two-step process that restores stained ABS plastic vinyl liner pools steps to like-new condition.

Preventing Pool Stains
To keep organic pool stains out of your pool, do your best to keep the pool clean. This may involve trimming trees or bushes around the pool, investing in a better winter pool cover or an automatic pool cleaner.

To prevent metallic stains from returning, make sure to keep your water balanced using a good water chemical test kit, and keep metals and minerals locked in solution with a good Stain & Scale chemical, as mentioned [many times] above. Metals in your water can come from well-water, from iron or copper pipes, or copper pool heat exchangers.

CuLator Metal EliminatorMetals are not impossible to remove from pool water. If you have severe metallic pool stains in your pool, try CuLator Metal Eliminator. Drop the CuLator 4.0 Powerpak your pump basket and it actually absorbs metals such as Copper, Iron, Manganese, Cobalt, Silver, and Nickel.

01/27/2019

How to replace a check valve:
What you will need:
New Pool Check Valve 1 or 2 nos.
Strap Wrench Oil free pool lubricant.

Pool check valves are used in swimming pools, spas, or hot sauna tubs which use a solar heating system. Pool check valves prevent the back flushing of water from the solar heater panels into the pool when the pump is turned off. When the check valves are not functioning properly, you can hear the gurgling sound of the filter and you may also see the formation of thin slices of siliceous sedimentary rock (diatomaceous Earth) in the pool around the sump. Such malfunctioning valves have to be replaced with new check valves. Replacing the pool check valves are a relatively simple process.



Step by Step Procedure

Step 1 – Observe the Valves

In order to examine the condition of the check valve, you should turn off the pump initially. Afterwards, observe carefully both the check valves to find which one of them is leaking. The outer covering of the valve shows an arrow indicating the correct flow direction of the water. Examine whether the water is flowing in the correct direction. At times both the valves may not be working properly – then both the pool check valves have to be replaced.

Step 2 – Remove the Fittings.

Use a strap wrench to loosen the fittings on one end of the faulty check valve. When both the valves are leaking, start by removing them one by one in order to prevent the confusion of the water flow direction. Loosen the fitting in the next end of the check valve also. Now remove the pool check valve from the fitting.

Step 3 – Lubricate the Ring
Apply the lubricant to the O-ring of the new check valve and position it in the place of the removed check valve and then tighten the fittings which you loosened in the previous step. After this, repeat Step 2 and 3 if you are going to replace the other leaking pool check valve.

Step 4 – Test the New Valves
Turn on the pool pump and check the flow of water. The water should go to the solar panels and come back from them and flow into the pool. Now switch off the pump and you should not hear any gurgling sound emanating from the pump. The entire pool plumbing system should work without making any noise.

Maintaining the Valve
Though replacing the valve is simple, instead of letting the valve leak, it can be maintained through some easy steps. Check the lint basket on a daily basis. Remove it and empty the contents of the lint basket since the clogging of the basket will prevent the proper flowing of water into and from the solar heater panels. In the same way apply lubricant to the o-ring of the pool check valve at least twice a year. This lubricant will prevent the corrosion of the check valve and also the deposition of the diatomaceous Earth.

12/21/2018

We hope your holiday is filled with love and laughter!!

09/28/2018

How to easily replace DE filter grids

So, you decided that you would buy the replacement set of universal DE filter grids, and make a DIY project out of it? Good for you. Replacing your DE grids is not heavy labor, any homeowner can do it. There are some tips and tricks however, that should make your grid replacement easy simpler.

When your grid set arrives, and you open the box, you will see the 8 shiny new grids as shown in the picture. A set of DE filter grids includes 7 large grids and 1 small grid. This is sometimes expressed as 7 full and 1 partial grid. In the diagram beneath the picture, you can locate the smaller grid by it's different width.

The first step to changing your DE filter grids is to remove the existing set from the filter tank.

How to remove DE filter grids from the tank

Backwash filter thoroughly.
Shut off the pool filter pump, at the breaker if possible.
Open the air release valve on top of the filter, near the pressure gauge.
Use a properly sized rachet or wrench to loosen the filter clamp band.
Remove the filter lid or filter top half, set aside carefully.
Lift the filter assembly out of the filter tank (you may need help!)
Take to a stable location, where you can hose it clean (it's messy!)
After cleaning the filter grids you can disassemble the old, existing DE filter grids. Loosen the wing nut(s) on top of the grid assembly, or specifically, the nut that tightens down onto the top manifold. Once the nut is removed (don't lose it!), you can pull the manifold up and off of the filter grids. A little twisting motion may help, and it should come right off. Note the location of the partial grid, or which hole in the manifold that the partial grid inserts into.

Inspect the manifold for any cracks, and make sure the air bleeder screen or sock is in place, to prevent DE powder seepage. Once the manifold is removed the old grids will just fall away. Pick them up and toss them in the trash can, or put them in the new grids box, to keep your trash can clean. Inspect the bottom spreader plate for any cracks after the grids are removed.

How to re-assemble a DE filter grid assembly

Ok, this is the spot where it gets tricky. Follow the steps below to install your new DE filter grids back into a filter grid Assembly.

place top manifold upside down, on two bricksLay the top manifold upside-down, supported on two sides by two small bricks, or blocks. Make sure it's level and stable.
Begin to insert the new filter grids snugly into the manifold. The smaller grid, the one that is not as wide, is going to be installed in the hole closest to the large hole on the bottom of the manifold. This hole fits over the standpipe, and the partial grid allows room for the standpipe.
When all of the grids are in place, lower the spreader plate (Hayward calls it the filter locater), with the bolts attached, centered over the bottom of the grids. One part of this bottom grid is open, and this part will need to be positioned directly above the standpipe hole of the manifold. This opening allows room for the standpipe, so make sure that it is positioned, as shown in the picture.
Each of the grids will fit in between the raised parts of the bottom spreader. filter grids inserted upside down.There is an orderly pattern that will become evident to you, giving all grids equal spacing from the adjacent grids. Slight twisting of the bottom spreader, with slight grid movements or wiggles, will help to properly seat the grids into the spreader plate.
If you haven't done this already, carefully push the thru-bolt(s) through the hole in the manifold, so that it sticks through the manifold and comes out on the bottom (the upside-down top).
Reach under the manifold and thread on the wing nut(s) to secure the through bolts. The nuts on the bottom of the spreader plate should lock into the nut-shaped housing, to keep them from turning while you tighten down the wing nut. Give some slight motion to the assembly as you are tightening, to make sure the grids are all seating properly, top and bottom. Tighten the wing nut down on top of the manifold securely.
Keeping hold of the entire assembly, (you may need help with this) flip over the assembly to stand it upright, on it's base. Check the wiggle of the assembly, and if you can tighten down further on the wing nut(s) to tighten up the assembly as much as possible. placing spreader plate on, upside down
Return the grid assembly to the filter tank, making sure the o-ring on top of the standpipe is in good shape, and the air bleeder screen or sock on top of the manifold - is in place. Put on the lid, and tighten down on the clamp band until all the edges of the clamp spring are touching each other. Tap the band with a heavy wrench or mallet once or twice while tightening, to ensure that it is fully seated on both halves of the filter tank.
With air bleeder still open, start up the filter pump.
Quickly add a full charge of DE powder to the filter, through the pool skimmer. On an absolutely clean filter, add 1lb of DE powder per 5 sq ft. of filter surface area (after backwashing you can halve this amount).

08/28/2018

Need a reliable, professional pool service? call us now or book online and your first monthly service is on us!!

08/01/2018

Pool Pump Motor Replacement
The pool pump motor drives the hardest-working machine in your swimming pool system. Even the highest-quality pool pump motors eventually wear out. You can replace just the motor without the cost for a whole new pump.

If you are experienced at configuring electrical wires, you can do this job yourself in an hour or two. But if you are the least bit unsure, protect yourself and all your pool users by having a licenced, trained pool technician or electrician replace the motor.

Obtain the correct replacement motor from where you purchased the pool pump.

Step 1: Disconnect the power supply to the pool pump
Ensure the pool pump's power switch is OFF. Shut off the breaker in the electrical panel box for the pool pump, too.
Step 2: Open up the pool pump and detach the motor mount bracket
Find the motor mounting bracket which holds the pool pump motor in place. It is usually under the strainer basket housing which holds the filter basket and all the plumbing ports.
Release and remove the bolts that attach the motor mount bracket to the strainer basket housing.
Detach the pool pump motor from the strainer basket housing
A separate item, the volute, which controls water used to prime the pump, will be nearby. Leave it in the pump for now.
Step 3: Lift out the pool pump motor
Grasp the motor and its mount bracket firmly and pull them out.

Check the gasket or O-ring seal that is between the motor mount bracket and the strainer basket housing. Replace it if it has rips, worn spots or no longer seats deeply into its location.
Step 4: Examine and detach the electrical wiring inside the motor
Find the copper ground wire and disconnect it.
Undo the electrical cover plate on the motor. Examine the wiring.
The green-covered wire is the ground wire. Two more wires, any color but green are the leads.
Detach all three wires from their fastenings.
Next, release the conduit, the sheath that covers the wires connecting the motor to the power switch or box. Undo a compression nut attached to an adapter. Save the adapter if you wish to reuse it, as the new motor may not have one.
Detach these power switch wires from the motor.
Step 5: Disengage the impeller (a set of rotating blades inside the motor)
Take the volute off if it is on top of the impeller.
Next, find the impeller shaft end at the opposite side of the motor. Flip open its cover plate.
Use either a box wrench or screwdriver to undo and remove the impeller in a turning motion, opposite to the direction the impeller vanes rotate.
Find and note the location of the pool pump seal, usually a gasket or O-ring. Replace this seal when you replace the motor.

Step 6: Remove the motor from the motor mount bracket
Release the nuts that hold the motor mount bracket and pull out the bolts.

Step 7: Install the new motor, by following the process from Steps 6 to 1.

Step 8: Restore electricity and test the motor's function.

03/02/2018

03/02/2018

02/19/2018

CLEAN THE POOL FILTER!

There are three kinds of pool filters: cartridge, sand and diatomaceous earth. While there are different maintenance procedures for each type, all require periodic cleaning depending on the type of filter and how often a pool is used. Cleaning the filter more often than recommended can actually hinder the filtration process. A clean filter is less efficient than one with a mild amount of dirt in it because the dirt helps trap other particles, which removes debris from the water. However, you don't want to let the filter get too dirty. A sign that it's time to clean is an increase in flow between the pressure gauge and flow meter. Clean the filter when the difference reaches 10 to 15 pounds (4.5 to 6.8 kilograms) per square inch.